Care & Advice

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Reading East, Wokingham
& Bracknell Branch

PO Box 4054,
Bracknell, Berks,
RG42 9DE

Tel: 07050 262493
(9am - 5pm
Mon - Fri only)

Date this page last modified:
08 August 2008

Copyright:
Cats Protection,
Reading (East),
Wokingham & Bracknell Branch
 ©2008

1. SO YOU WANT A CAT OR KITTEN?
A cat or kitten makes a very worthwhile pet, providing that it is properly cared for. If you have taken, or are about to take a stray or rescued feline into your home, then you are actively helping such organisations as Cats Protection in their work. There are many more such cats than there are homes available. Before you take on the responsibility of owning a cat or kitten please think carefully about what it will involve.

1. Cost of feeding and veterinary treatment (including the cost of vaccinations and neutering)
2. Making time for play, grooming and companionship
3. Being prepared to accept that it may catch birds and other prey
4. Ensuring adequate arrangements for when you are away from home
5. Making sure your cat or kitten will not become a nuisance to neighbours

1.1 KITTENS
Kittens are old enough to leave their mother at eight weeks. A pretty, lively kitten can be an attractive proposition. Remember, however, that he or she will become a cat after six months perhaps for the next 14 years. A kitten should be yours for life!

2. NEUTERING
Cats Protection advocates the neutering of all cats not required for breeding in order to keep down the number of strays. One female cat can, in five years, be responsible for some 20,000 descendants and many of these must inevitably become homeless, with a life that offers only misery, hunger and disease. Both male and female cats can be neutered at six months or older (please be guided by your vet). In the case of the male, a simple routine operation only is involved. The female requires a longer operation which, although routine, usually necessitates a return to the veterinary surgery after seven to ten days for the removal of stitches. Neutering produces a much more satisfactory and enjoyable pet. A neutered male should refrain from spraying about the house and leaving an unpleasant smell; he should also be disinclined to wander or to fight. It is not correct that a female cat should be allowed, on humane grounds, to have one litter before neutering. To underline the importance of neutering, Cats Protection runs a scheme to help those in dire financial need to have their cats neutered. Application can be made for a voucher, either to this Branch of Cats Protection if you live in the area covered by this Branch, or to the Headquarters at Horsham.

3. HEALTH CARE
3.1 VACCINATIONS
Feline Enteritis
is a rapidly fatal disease of cats which can be effectively prevented by vaccination. This should be done as soon as the cat has settled in or at 9 to 12 weeks of age in the case of kittens. Your veterinary surgeon will give you a certificate; keep it safely, for no boarding cattery worth its salt will accept a boarder without it. Booster injections are required every year and need to be budgeted for.

Feline Leukaemia is a common, fatal disease of cats. It may affect cats of any age. A vaccine is now available which involves an initial course of two injections and annual boosters. In addition the manufacturers advise a blood test before the initial course. Your veterinary surgeon will advise you on the best time to vaccinate your kitten against this disease.

Cat 'Flu is another common disease of cats, though much less serious than the other two. Given good veterinary treatment and nursing care, it is rare for a cat to die of cat 'flu. However, if you wish to prevent it, and if your budget will stretch to it after the feline enteritis and feline leukaemia vaccinations, there are two vaccines available; one against the viral forms of cat 'flu and one against chlamydia which causes persistent conjunctivitis. Because cat 'flu has considerable nuisance value in indoor boarding catteries, many cattery owners insist on an up-to-date vaccination. Do not expect the vaccination to be 100% effective; cats can still catch other strains of 'flu.

A combined vaccine is now available for all three diseases. Please contact your vet.

3.2 TEETH
Many adult cats suffer from heavy build-up of plaque on their teeth which causes them great discomfort when eating and will eventually lead to a refusal to eat and/or loss of teeth. Plaque can be removed by a veterinary surgeon while the cat is under a general anaesthetic. The formation of plaque is best prevented by giving a half-cooked piece of tough meat to chew on once or twice a week. A few pieces of dried cat food with each meal will also help. Cats which hunt and eat their prey remove plaque for themselves. Teeth cleaning products are available from your vet.

3.3 FIRST AID
In Road Accidents, if you have to move a cat from a dangerous road, lay a coat or blanket down, insert both hands under the cat and slide him onto the coat; pick up the edges of the coat and lower him into a large cardboard box or a drawer if no open-topped cat box is available. With Scalds and Burns due to fire, hot fat, boiling water, acid etc., use plenty of running cold water. The cold water will reduce pain and shock, but do not expect co-operation from your cat! If concerned about minor burns and scalds, and in more serious cases, seek veterinary advice at once. Always consult your vet if you are concerned about your cat's health. The vet is the expert and is there to help and advise. A healthy cat or kitten has bright, dry eyes, a nose clear of discharge (but not dry or cracked), lips free from saliva and a glossy, clean coat.

3.4 WORMS
Most cats suffer from Roundworms at some time in their lives and the fact that you do not see them does not mean that none is present. Six-monthly treatment for roundworms is advisable for adult cats, two-weekly treatment for kittens from one to six months of age.

Tapeworms, if present, will be noticeable, as segments are passed in the faeces and can be seen clinging to the cat's trousers. When dry, the segments are cream coloured and resemble small grains of rice.

Treatment for all types of worms is available from veterinary surgeries.

3.5 FLEAS
Even cats in the best circles may pick up fleas when outside the house. To eliminate fleas, not only the cat must be treated but the whole house, e.g. skirting boards, carpets, base of curtains, furniture etc., as well as the cat's bedding. Treat the cat with a safe insecticide spray or powder. Treat the house with suitable products available from veterinary surgeons, chemists or pet shops.

3.6 EAR MITES
An infected cat or kitten will scratch his ears, shake his head and even damage the skin on his ears and temples. Ear Mites live on dead skin, inside the ear. Brown wax will be seen in the outer ear. Your veterinary surgeon will prescribe ear drops and show you how to treat your cat.

4. FEEDING
No matter how well we provide for our felines in terms of warmth, safety, companionship and health care, the one thing that finally attracts and binds a cat is the food we provide. Throughout his life a cat will have a variety of of dietary needs according to its age and state of health. A cat who does not receive a balanced and varied diet may well move elsewhere!

5. DAILY LIFE
5.1 SLEEP
Cats are great preservers of energy and spend about two thirds of their life asleep. Provide a basket or cardboard box, raised from the floor to exclude draughts and line it with a small blanket. Give a kitten a chance to sleep for a good deal of the day. Remember, it is a young animal, not a toy and children should be taught to respect him as such and allow him to sleep.

5.2 TOILET TRAINING
Cats are naturally clean animals but a new kitten needs to be shown what is required. Provide a litter tray, filled with commercial cat litter (the wood-based litter is flushable). Keep it in the same place, easily accessible to the kitten, and make sure it is cleaned regularly. Take the kitten to the tray after meals and on waking up from sleep. If there is access to a garden, introduce him to it gradually and he will soon learn to make his own toilet arrangements.

5.3 HANDLING
Contrary to popular belief, it is quite wrong to pick up a cat or kitten by the scruff of his neck; this can damage the muscles. Hold the cat or kitten with one hand under the chest and with the rest of his weight supported by your other hand. Kittens particularly must be handled gently as their bones are fragile.

5.4 GROOMING
Regular grooming of your cat is advised, especially for long-haired cats. Brushing and combing will remove loose hair, dirt and dust and the occasional flea that he may pick up. Grooming also helps to prevent fur-balls which can be harmful and form in the cat's stomach when he constantly licks loose fur. Daily grooming also ensures time devoted exclusively to your cat, which is important with today's frantic pace of life. Your cat can be forgotten amidst the many other demands on your time.

5.5 EXERCISE & FRESH AIR
All cats need exercise and, to keep your cat fit and to protect your furniture, a scratching post is a good investment; alternatively, you might bring in a log or make a scratching board to help your cat to keep his claws sharpened. This will assist him to flex his muscles and to shed old claw sheaths. Scratching posts also enable the cat to mark his territory as a scent is deposited (undetectable by humans) through his claws - this makes him feel at home and usually stops the need for him to do this on the furniture. Toys, such as table tennis balls, cat-mint mice or a cotton reel, are usually acceptable and keep him active. Fresh air and sunshine are necessary to us all and, if your cat or kitten is confined to a flat without an enclosed balcony, fit a wire frame into one window to admit air and sunshine without the risk of his falling from a height. White cats however are very susceptible to the harmful rays of the sun and should be kept out of it as much as possible especially during the hours when it is most damaging. It is unsafe to allow cats out on narrow ledges or open roofs several floors above the street. Many animals are injured and killed every year through lunging at a bird or butterfly and missing their footing. It is not true that a cat will 'always land on its feet'.

5.6 YOUR CAT AT NIGHT
Cats should never be shut out at night. Apart from the callousness of picking him up from a warm, comfortable snooze on the hearth rug and putting him out in the cold, there are the risks of road accidents and stealing. Most road accidents to cats take place during the hours of darkness. Cat stealing, unfortunately, does go on and mostly at night. Keep your cat safely in at night and provide him with a litter tray.

 


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